How the city is laid out

Bangkok skyline seen from Wat Saket

Two landmarks are enough to find your bearings. The Chao Phraya flows from north to south: to the east is the bank of the old town, Chinatown and the modern centre; to the west is the quieter, more local Thonburi bank. The modern city stretches from west to east along two main public transport axes: the BTS Sukhumvit line (Siam, Phrom Phong, Thong Lo…) and the BTS Silom line (from Siam towards Silom and Saphan Taksin, on the river). Siam station is where they cross.

The old town (Rattanakosin) is about temples and palaces; the modern centre (Siam, Sukhumvit, Silom) is about shopping malls, restaurants and nightlife. You usually travel between the two by river bus, taxi or metro with one change.

Rattanakosin and Banglamphu: palaces, temples and Khao San

This is postcard Bangkok: the Grand Palace, Wat Pho, Wat Saket and the National Museum, all visitable on foot. Banglamphu, to the north, has Khao San Road, the hostels and the bars.

  • Who is it for? A short first stay, tight budgets, temple lovers.
  • Where to sleep: hostels and small hotels around Khao San and the river; there is no BTS or MRT in the area, so you arrive by river bus or taxi.
  • Where to eat: street food and simple restaurants; see our Banglamphu guide and Rattanakosin island.
  • Downsides: heat, traffic, the fake "temple closed" story (see our advice on scams).

Chinatown and the river (Yaowarat, Talat Noi)

Narrow streets, Chinese temples, markets and, at nightfall, the main Yaowarat road taken over by food stalls. You explore on foot and by boat; see Chinatown and the Charoen Krung and Bang Rak area further south.

  • Who is it for? Food lovers, the curious, atmosphere seekers.
  • Where to sleep: a few hotels and hostels; the blue MRT line serves Hua Lamphong and Wat Mangkon.
  • Where to eat: this is the evening street-food area; see street food in Bangkok.

Siam and Pathumwan: malls and museums

The commercial heart: shopping centres around Siam, Siam Paragon, the Jim Thompson House, cinemas, galleries and air-conditioned walkways that link almost everything.

  • Who is it for? Shopping, rainy days, children, a first stay without transport stress.
  • Where to sleep: large hotels and business hotels served by both BTS lines: this is the best-connected area.
  • Where to eat: food courts in mall basements, restaurants of every level; see food courts.

Sukhumvit: restaurants, bars and expats

A very long avenue lined with hotels, restaurants and bars. The stations are called Nana, Asok, Phrom Phong, Thong Lo and Ekkamai; each area has its own style. See the Sukhumvit guide.

  • Who is it for? Nightlife, varied food, business or long stays.
  • Where to sleep: wide choice, from small hotels to luxury; streets next to a BTS station are worth more than those a 15-minute walk away.
  • Where to eat: world cuisines, cafés, chef-driven places; see the cafés of Bangkok.

Silom and Sathorn: business, park and rooftops

A business district with large hotels, home to Lumphini Park, the Mahanakhon SkyWalk and several rooftop bars. See Silom and Sathorn and the rooftop bars.

  • Who is it for? Business travellers, couples, view lovers.
  • Where to sleep: upscale hotels near the river and around Sala Daeng.
  • Where to eat: a very wide range, from street stalls to chef restaurants; the area is quiet on Sundays.

Thonburi and the west bank

A quieter bank with canals, temples and stilt houses. Wat Arun is across from Wat Pho; Iconsiam sits on the riverfront. See Thonburi.

  • Who is it for? Returning travellers, lovers of waterside walks.
  • Where to sleep: riverside hotels, often with a boat shuttle; a little isolated in the evening.

Chatuchak, Ari and the north

The Chatuchak market, the neighbouring parks and the Ari district, popular for its cafés; see Chatuchak and Ari. Reachable by BTS (Mo Chit) and MRT (Chatuchak Park).

Dusit: the royal district

Wide avenues, palaces, parliament and Wat Benchamabophit; see Dusit. Calmer, best done in half a day.

Summary table

Area Best for Where to sleep Main transport
Rattanakosin / Banglamphu Temples, palaces, Khao San Hostels and small hotels River bus, taxi
Chinatown Evening street food, temples A few hotels Blue MRT, boat
Siam / Pathumwan Shopping, museums, rain Well-connected hotels BTS (two lines)
Sukhumvit Restaurants, bars Wide choice BTS Sukhumvit
Silom / Sathorn Business, park, rooftops Upscale hotels BTS Silom, MRT
Thonburi River, canals, calm Riverside hotels Boat, shuttles
Chatuchak / Ari Market, cafés Simple hotels BTS, MRT
Dusit Palaces, avenues Few options Taxi, bus

Getting from one area to another

The fastest is often the BTS or MRT, but neither serves the old town. The Chao Phraya river bus (see getting around Bangkok) links Saphan Taksin, Chinatown, Wat Pho and Wat Arun and avoids traffic jams. A metered taxi or a ride-hailing app covers the rest. Always allow a margin: a 5 km trip can take 15 minutes or an hour.

Where to sleep in brief

For a first stay without a car, favour Siam, Silom or Sukhumvit near a BTS station. For temples, the Rattanakosin or Thonburi riverbank. Our guide where to stay in Bangkok covers each area by budget.

Tips for using a map

  • Pin your addresses in the map app before you leave, with Thai names to show a driver.
  • Choose a hotel within 5 to 10 minutes' walk of a station: in Bangkok, straight-line distance is misleading.
  • Group your visits by area in a day.
  • Paper maps from the tourist office are available in hotels and at the airport; check their date.

Going further

To plan days by area, see Bangkok in 2 days and Bangkok in 3 days. For first-trip tips, see 25 tips for a first trip.