Thonburi: a guide to the west bank of Bangkok

Thonburi is the west bank of the Chao Phraya, facing the old city of Rattanakosin. The kingdom's capital from 1767 to 1782 under King Taksin, it is now a quiet district crossed by canals, lanes and temples where tourists are rare. People come for Wat Arun, of course, but also for a longtail boat ride along the khlongs, a neighbourhood of old Portuguese Catholics, a creative market, a weekend floating market and two riverside museums. This guide presents the sights by area, from Memorial Bridge to Taling Chan, with how to get there. Hours are indicative; check the individual pages.

Thonburi at a glance

Thonburi is a group of districts of the capital, separated from the centre by the river: Bangkok Yai, Thon Buri, Khlong San, Bangkok Noi. The metro is thin near the river: the express boat and the ferries are the most practical way in. The pace is slower and more residential than on the other bank.

The simplest way is to cross the river by boat: the ferry costs a few baht, and the Chao Phraya express boat, detailed in our page on the Chao Phraya river, serves the main piers. For fares, cards and taxis, see our guide to getting around Bangkok.

Around Wat Arun and the river

Wat Arun, the Temple of Dawn, with its porcelain-covered prang, is the best-known monument of the west bank; you cross by ferry from Tha Tien pier, near Wat Pho. Our page gives the hours and prices.

Further north, in the Bangkok Noi district, two museums complete a riverside visit: the Siriraj Museum, devoted to medicine and anatomy, and the Royal Barges Museum, which keeps the ceremonial barges used in processions on the river. See their pages for hours and access.

The khlongs of Thonburi

The west bank is criss-crossed by small canals (khlongs) that recall the Bangkok from before the roads. A longtail boat trip on the khlongs of Thonburi shows stilt houses, temples and fruit gardens, far from the traffic. Negotiate the price and duration before boarding: fares vary with the length of the trip.

Kudi Chin: temples, church and Portuguese cakes

Just downstream from Memorial Bridge, the Kudi Chin neighbourhood is one of the most appealing in Bangkok. After the fall of Ayutthaya in 1767, King Taksin settled Portuguese families here, later joined by Chinese, Mon and Muslims. There are three visits to combine on foot, in half a day:

Wat Kalayanamit, a royal temple from 1825 with its large seated Buddha;
Santa Cruz Church, Renaissance Revival with a red dome, built in 1913-1916;
Wat Prayoon, with its white chedi and tortoise hill.

The roofs of Wat Kalayanamit by the river

Try khanom farang kudi chin, a small baked cake of Portuguese inspiration, and stroll the riverside walkway (Kudi Chin Riverwalk), laid out as part of the restoration of the neighbourhood.

Chang Chui and Taling Chan market

In northern Thonburi, Chang Chui is a creative market and evening destination known for its aeroplane parked in the open air; see the page for hours. Further on, the Taling Chan floating market is held only at weekends, on a canal lined with restaurants and stalls. As both are far from the riverbank, plan on a taxi or Grab.

ICONSIAM, the modern gateway to Thonburi

Facing Charoen Krung, ICONSIAM is the west bank's big shopping centre: luxury galleries, an indoor floating market, a food court, and free shuttles from the piers on the east bank. It is a good air-conditioned option for a meal at the end of the day after the temples.

How to organise a day in Thonburi

A simple plan:

Morning: Kudi Chin (Wat Prayoon, Santa Cruz, Wat Kalayanamit), starting from Memorial Bridge pier.
Lunch on the walkway or in Kudi Chin's restaurants.
Afternoon: cross to Wat Arun, then a boat to ICONSIAM.
At weekends: end the day at Taling Chan market, or spend the evening at Chang Chui.

To understand the surroundings, our guide to Chinatown covers the other bank, just opposite.