Two great traditions in Bangkok

Thai Buddhism teaches meditation by several methods. Two come up in Bangkok:

  • Vipassana ("clear seeing"): you observe the breath, the body and sensations, alternating sitting and walking meditation. It is the most common method for foreign beginners.
  • Dhammakaya, born at Wat Paknam: you fix your attention on a luminous sphere imagined at the centre of the body. This method was taught by Luang Pu Sodh, abbot of the temple from 1916 to 1959.

Wat Mahathat: the centre for foreigners

Wat Mahathat (3 Maha Rat Road, near the Grand Palace) houses a Vipassana meditation centre in its "Section 5", open to foreigners. According to several recent guides:

  • Three-hour sessions are given in English by monks, with sitting and walking meditation; the time slots quoted are morning, afternoon and evening, but they differ by source.
  • Taking part is free; you leave a donation.
  • For overnight retreats (around three days according to some sites), you wear white and follow a strict timetable, with a 4:30am wake-up.

Because the times vary, turn up in person and ask for the day's session. The temple is reached by express boat to Tha Chang or Tha Maharaj pier, or by MRT to Sanam Chai and then a taxi.

Wat Paknam: the Dhammakaya method

Wat Paknam, on the Thonburi bank, is the origin of Dhammakaya meditation. Visitors come mostly for its great chedi and its contemplative atmosphere; to follow a teaching, ask the temple (English classes are not guaranteed every day). The large Wat Phra Dhammakaya in Pathum Thani, north of Bangkok, is the best-known temple of this tradition and can be visited on site (large meditation hall, tram within the grounds); contact it directly about programmes.

Wat Bowonniwet: the seat of the Dhammayut order

Wat Bowonniwet is the temple of the royal monks and the seat of the Dhammayut order. It is not a centre for tourists but a working monastery: you come for the atmosphere, the murals and the feel of late afternoons. If meditation seriously interests you, it is a good place to sit for a while in the courtyard, without pretending to follow a course.

Meditating on your own: quiet places

  • Wat Pho: visit early in the morning, before the groups arrive, to find a little calm.
  • Wat Saket and the Golden Mount: the summit at opening time, before the crowds.
  • Lumphini Park: at dawn, locals practise qigong, tai chi and walking; the park opens at 4:30am.

Longer retreats

To go further than a few hours, ten-day retreats exist in Thailand, often outside Bangkok, with total silence and strict rules. They must be booked in advance online. Do not attempt one lightly: the silence and the programme are demanding, and it is better to have tried a short session first.

Tips for beginners

  • Clothing: shoulders and knees covered, loose clothes, often white for retreats. Details in our guide to what to wear in Bangkok's temples.
  • Etiquette: you take your shoes off, never point your feet at a Buddha, and a woman does not touch a monk or hand him an object directly. See etiquette in Thailand.
  • Length: start with a three-hour session, not a retreat.
  • Heat: arrive early and drink water before the session.
  • Afterwards: a Thai massage to loosen the legs.

Going further

Meditation combines well with the temples around the Grand Palace: read our guide to Banglamphu and our selection of Bangkok in 2 days.