Wat Saman Rattanaram, in Chachoengsao province about 80 kilometres east of Bangkok, is famous for its reclining pink Ganesh, some fifteen metres high and billed as the largest in Thailand. The Buddhist temple, on the bank of the Bang Pakong River, has surrounded itself with brightly coloured Hindu and Chinese statues: a Ganesh at rest, an Erawan, a tall white and pink Guanyin, Chinese deities. Worshippers come mostly to ask Ganesh, the god of new beginnings and removed obstacles, for a favour. Entry is free; allow half a day including the trip from Bangkok, for a visit of one to two hours.
Highlights

The reclining pink Ganesh
The statue shows Ganesh half-reclined in the pose known as happy repose, pink and gold, his elephant head topped with a crown. It is about 16 metres high according to local sources; length figures vary (from 14 to 24 metres) and are not official. You can walk all the way round, and take photos at a respectful distance from the worshippers praying there.

The giant Guanyin
The Chinese goddess of compassion stands on a lotus-shaped base, one hand raised, in a white and pink robe. Worshippers come to leave incense and flowers.

Chinese and Hindu deities
Along the paths, the temple lines up very colourful statues: Chinese deities against a red backdrop, Brahma, Erawan the three-headed elephant, nagas, and dozens of Ganesh in different poses around the main shrine. The whole thing is rather kitsch and cheerful: the mood is as much funfair as contemplation.
Ganesh's rats
Around the statue, rat statues, Ganesh's mount, surround the god. Custom is to whisper your wish into a rat's ear while covering the other ear, so that it carries the wish to Ganesh, then to come back and give thanks if the wish comes true. Stalls offer offerings (flowers, fruit, incense) around the temple.
Infos pratiques
Tips
The temple is an active place of worship: dress modestly (shoulders and knees covered) and keep your voice down near the altars. Entry is free; donations go in the boxes and offerings are bought on site. The statues are visited on foot, with no shade over much of the site: bring a hat, water and sun cream. The trip is long for a single visit; many travellers combine the temple with a floating market or a stop in Chachoengsao (see our guide to day trips from Bangkok). If you like Hindu sites, also stop at the Erawan Shrine in central Bangkok, which also has a much-venerated Brahma.
How to get there
The easiest way is a taxi, a Grab or a driver hired for the day: the trip from central Bangkok takes from 1 h 30 to 2 h depending on traffic. By public transport, take a bus or minivan to Chachoengsao (travellers report about 2 hours), or an Eastern Line train to Chachoengsao station, then a taxi or motorbike taxi to the temple (check train times on the SRT website before you go). Plan to be back before dark: transport thins out in the evening. Adresse : Wat Saman Rattanaram, Tambon Kon Kaeo (Bang Kaeo), Mueang Chachoengsao district, Chachoengsao province 24000. Telephone: +66 81 983 0400.
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