Jodd Fairs Ratchada: Bangkok's night market (formerly Rama 9), opening hours and MRT access

Updated on October 1, 2026

Jodd Fairs is Bangkok's most popular night market, famous for its rows of street food stalls, cheap clothes and late-evening atmosphere. Note that it has moved: the original site behind the Central Rama 9 shopping mall closed at the end of 2024, and the market now runs on Ratchadaphisek Road, next to Big C Ratchada, a few minutes' walk from Thailand Cultural Centre MRT station. The former DanNeramit branch, in Lat Phrao, has also closed. The market opens every evening from 5pm; entry is free. Allow two hours to walk round and have dinner.

Highlights

The heir to Talad Rot Fai Ratchada

Jodd Fairs took over from Talad Rot Fai Ratchada, the train market whose multicoloured canvas roofs, seen from above in this photo, went viral on social media. That market, set behind the Esplanade shopping mall, has gone, but Jodd Fairs has kept its spirit and its crowds, not far away on the same avenue. You will find the same tight rows of stalls under awnings, lit up as soon as night falls.

The leng saap mountain

The market's signature dish is leng saap, pork spine simmered in a spicy, sour lime broth. At Jodd Fairs, several stalls serve it as a huge pyramid of bones topped with chillies and coriander, to share between several people. Expect from about 180 baht a tray, depending on size.

Street food

Most of the market is given over to food: grilled skewers, seafood, noodles, spicy salads, mango sticky rice, banana pancakes and drinks served in large cups. Tables are set up between the rows, but they fill up quickly at weekends. Tourist curiosities (crocodile skewers, fried scorpions) sit alongside everyday dishes.

Clothes and souvenirs

Some of the stalls sell clothes, accessories, phone cases, costume jewellery and souvenirs. The choice is much smaller than at [Chatuchak Market](/fr/attractions/marche-de-chatuchak), which is best kept for a proper weekend shopping trip. Vintage cars and props set up at the entrance serve as photo backdrops.

Infos pratiques

Tips

Bring small notes: many stalls accept Thai QR code payment (PromptPay), which mainly works with Thai banking apps, but cash remains the safest option. Walk one full loop before buying, as the same dishes come up in several rows at different prices. Since the market is mostly open-air, a downpour can close some of the stalls during the rainy season (May to October). Indicative prices noted in 2026: about 180 baht for a tray of leng saap, 35 to 70 baht for a drink; they vary from stall to stall. To withdraw cash or pay on the spot, see our guide to [paying in Bangkok](/fr/articles/argent-paiement-pourboire-bangkok).

How to get there

129 Ratchadaphisek Road, Din Daeng, Bangkok 10400, next to Big C Ratchada. MRT Blue Line, Thailand Cultural Centre station (exit 4), about 3 minutes' walk. The site of the former Jodd Fairs Rama 9, behind Central Rama 9, is closed: do not go there. An underground car park is available for drivers. To get around the city, see our guide to [transport in Bangkok](/fr/articles/transports-bangkok).